Most players are best served by a midweight paddle, roughly 7.3 to 8.4 ounces, held in the smallest grip they can control without squeezing. Weight sets the trade between power and hand speed. Grip size sets how hard you have to clench, and clenching is what leads to a sore elbow. Weight is fixed when you buy, but grip size can only be corrected upwards, so between two sizes take the smaller one.
An overgrip adds roughly a sixteenth of an inch per wrap. Nothing takes a handle down. That asymmetry should drive the whole decision.
The three weight bands
The figure on the spec sheet is static weight: what the paddle reads on a scale, bare, before tape or a grip. Brands usually quote a range, because two paddles of the same model can differ by a tenth of an ounce. The bands most shops use are lightweight under about 7.3 ounces, midweight from around 7.3 to 8.4, and heavy above that. Those boundaries are conventions; what matters is which end you shop in.
| Band | Roughly | Who it suits | Main trade-off |
|---|---|---|---|
| Lightweight | Under about 7.3 oz | Fast hands at the kitchen line, counter-punchers, anyone nursing an elbow | You supply the power, and blocks get pushed around |
| Midweight | About 7.3 to 8.4 oz | The default. Most recreational and club players should start here | Nothing extreme either way, which is the point |
| Heavy | Above about 8.4 oz | Singles players and baseline drivers who want a head that plows through pace | Slower hands in fast exchanges, more load on the elbow |
What weight changes when you play
Power first, since it is why people reach for heavy paddles. A heavier head carries more momentum into contact, so the same swing produces more ball speed for less effort. That helps on drives and overheads, and it is why singles players drift heavy.
Manoeuvrability is the cost, and it is paid where most points are decided: the kitchen line. Hand battles at the non-volley zone leave no time to swing, only to get the face there and hold it steady. A light paddle arrives sooner. Players who call a paddle "slow" usually mean heavy in the head rather than heavy overall.
Paddletek
Paddletek Tempest Wave
A soft, control-leaning build for players whose game is dinks, blocks and resets rather than drives
Best for: Dinking, resets and soft-game players
A long-standing control paddle. Soft feel that absorbs pace, which is exactly what you want if your game is built at the kitchen line rather than from the baseline.
- Face
- Composite
- Shape
- Wide body
- Core
- Polymer honeycomb
- Feel
- Soft, control leaning
- Grip
- Standard
Strengths
- Excellent touch on resets and dinks
- Predictable, quiet feel
Trade-offs
- You have to generate your own power
- Not the spin leader
Affiliate link. Specs come from manufacturer listings and were last checked on 2026-09-07. Confirm the current model and price on the product page before you buy.
Stability sits on the other side of that trade: a heavier paddle twists less on off-centre contact, so mishits still go somewhere sensible. If your contact is inconsistent, mass is your friend. If your hands are your weapon, mass is your enemy. Most people sit between the two, which is what the midweight band exists for. The control versus power guide covers how face and core feed in.
JOOLA
JOOLA Ben Johns Hyperion
The power end of the spectrum: an elongated head that rewards a clean, committed swing
Best for: Aggressive players who drive and put balls away
The signature power paddle of the men's game. Elongated shape buys reach and leverage at the cost of a smaller sweet spot, so it rewards clean contact and punishes sloppy hands.
- Face
- Carbon fibre
- Shape
- Elongated
- Core
- Polypropylene honeycomb
- Feel
- Power leaning
- Grip
- Longer handle for two hands
Strengths
- Serious put-away power
- Long handle suits a two-handed backhand
Trade-offs
- Smaller sweet spot than a wide body
- Priced at the top of the market
Affiliate link. Specs come from manufacturer listings and were last checked on 2026-09-07. Confirm the current model and price on the product page before you buy.
Grip size and the index-finger gap test
Paddle handles run in a narrower range of circumferences than tennis racquets, and the usual way to check fit without equipment is the index-finger gap test. Take a normal forehand grip with your fingers wrapped, then try to slide the index finger of your other hand into the gap between your fingertips and the base of your thumb. Snug is about right. If it will not fit, the grip is too small. If there is slack, it is too big.
Do this with the grip you will play with, overgrip included, and with a dry hand. Because an overgrip adds around a sixteenth of an inch per wrap, a handle that comes up slightly small is fixable in a minute for the price of a consumable, and reversible if you overshoot. A handle that is too big can only be fixed by stripping the factory grip and rewrapping, or by buying another paddle.
Various
Pickleball overgrips
Buy a pack with any paddle: it corrects grip size and replaces the slick factory wrap
Best for: Fixing grip size and grip slip for a few pounds
The highest-return few pounds in pickleball. An overgrip builds a too-small handle up to the right size and replaces the sweat-slick factory grip. A consumable, not a purchase.
- Type
- Tacky or absorbent
- Adds to grip size
- Roughly 1/16 inch per wrap
- Replace
- Every few weeks with regular play
Strengths
- Corrects grip size without a new paddle
- Costs almost nothing
Trade-offs
- Needs replacing regularly
- Tacky and absorbent suit different hands
Affiliate link. Specs come from manufacturer listings and were last checked on 2026-09-07. Confirm the current model and price on the product page before you buy.
Grip size, over-gripping and the elbow
A handle that is too small forces you to squeeze to stop the paddle rotating on contact. That clench keeps the forearm extensors under tension all session, and sustained tension plus repeated impact is the recipe for lateral epicondylitis, better known as tennis elbow. It is the complaint you hear most in pickleball after eye injuries.
Grip size is only one contributor. Gripping hard through every dink, swinging a paddle heavier than your arm is used to, and adding volume too quickly all push the same way. The fix is unglamorous: a grip you can hold loosely, a weight you can still swing cleanly in the third hour, and a wrist that stays firm through contact rather than flicking. If your elbow already hurts, dropping a weight band and adding a cushioned overgrip are the fastest levers.
Lead tape and swing weight
Static weight is not the whole story. Swing weight describes how heavy a paddle feels in motion, which depends on where the mass sits, not just how much there is. Mass out at the head raises swing weight sharply; mass in the handle barely moves it and can make a paddle feel quicker while steadying your hand.
Lead tape lets you tune this. Strips at roughly three and nine o'clock on the edge guard widen the effective sweet spot without adding much power. Tape at twelve o'clock adds the most power and the most swing weight, and is the quickest way to make a paddle feel sluggish. Add a little at a time, and remember it is weight your elbow now carries. If you compete, check whether modifications affect the paddle's standing for sanctioned play.
Selkirk
Selkirk SLK Evo
A forgiving midweight wide body, and a sensible paddle to learn on before you know what weight you want
Best for: A first real paddle to replace whatever came in the starter set
The sensible upgrade path. Real brand, real warranty, a fraction of flagship money. A beginner will gain far more from this than from a paddle costing four times as much.
- Face
- Fibreglass or composite
- Shape
- Wide body
- Core
- Polymer
- Feel
- Forgiving
- Grip
- Standard
Strengths
- Big sweet spot for developing hands
- Cheap enough to learn on
Trade-offs
- Less spin than a textured carbon face
- You will outgrow it if you improve fast
Affiliate link. Specs come from manufacturer listings and were last checked on 2026-09-07. Confirm the current model and price on the product page before you buy.
Common mistakes
Buying heavy for power you could get from technique. Most missing power comes from a short backswing and a passive lower body, not an ounce of paddle. Heavy paddles hide that for a while, then your elbow sends the bill.
Taking the bigger grip because it feels roomy in the shop. Hands swell during play, but not by a whole size, and a loose handle rotates on off-centre hits. Small and built up beats big and stuck.
Ignoring the grip the paddle came with. Factory grips go slick with sweat, and a slick handle makes you squeeze harder.
Questions people ask
What weight should a beginner buy?
Midweight, almost always. It is forgiving on off-centre contact while you learn the sweet spot, without loading an arm that has not adapted. Go lighter or heavier later, once you know whether you win points with hands or with drives. The paddle finder can build you a shortlist to demo.
Does a heavier paddle cause tennis elbow?
It contributes rather than causes. Elbow load comes from impact shock, grip tension, playing volume and technique together. Extra weight raises the force your forearm handles on every contact, so it makes an existing problem worse faster. Grip size and grip tension are usually the bigger levers.
How many overgrips can I stack?
One or two. Each adds roughly a sixteenth of an inch, so two takes you up about an eighth. Beyond that the handle loses its shape, the bevels vanish under padding, and you stop feeling which way the face is pointing.
Does handle length matter as well as grip size?
Yes, and it gets overlooked. A longer handle is what makes a two-handed backhand comfortable, and it is common on elongated paddles. If you hit with two hands, handle length may constrain your choice more than weight does. Weigh it with the other fit decisions in the paddle buying guide.